Central Dartmoor, perfect Moorland walking
Central Dartmoor National Park walkers head off!The central and High Moorland areas of Dartmoor contain many an ancient wonder, created by both nature and by man. As the ice retreated man moved in, and flint tools from the Mesolitic Age, or middle Stone Age around 8000BC have been found in Dartmoor National Park. Dartmoor is definitely one of the most monumental and prolific areas for Bronze Age sites in Britain. Key examples are all here in central and High Moorland Dartmoor, such as burial grounds like Spinster's Rock (dated to the Neolithic Period), Megalithic sites such as Merrivale's stone row and the remains of early Bronze Age settlements on Dartmoor such as Grimspound north of Widdecombe. Other features include waymarking crosses errected by monks in outlying abbeys which date from the 12th century and evidence of tin mining, mostly open cast.
Walking and exploring the heart of Dartmoor National Park is to take a close look at the fascinating history of the South West of England. Dartmoor's wilderness contributes much to the fact that so many Mesolithic, stone age and bronze age features remain undisturbed. Key central bases include Widecombe-in-the-Moor and Two Bridges, many of which grew in the Medieval period. Princetown is the exception of course, associated most closely with Dartmoor Prison. Walking and exploring the many Tors, Hut circles, Bronze Age settlements and hill top burial mounds are what really appeals in this central high moorland wilderness.
Examples of Stone Age and Bronze Age settlement in Dartmoor are many, so where to start. Grimspound just off the B3212 is one of the most accessible Bronze Age settlement in Dartmoor, so a good starting point. This settlement was certainly not built as a defence. There's a small enclosed area, remains of a circular village boundary with about 24 huts, and smaller animal enclosures. Some think that this Bronze Age settlement was used for stock, probably during the calving or lambing season. Grimspound Hut Circles and settlement are just to the east of the Two Moors Way, so it's accessible to walkers as well.
Moving forward from the Bronze and Stone Age, there are also many examples of both Celtic tribal settlement and Saxon settlement. Hillforts are the marks left of Dartmoor by the Celts. Medieval Dartmoor reveals itself in the few remaining Longhouses such as that between Hound Tor and Greator Rocks. Abbeys in outlying settlements like Buckfastleigh and Tavistock, these settlements were built around the Abbeys, soon began to accummulate much power and wealth in Dartmoor through sheep grazing and gruelling Cistercian hard work and prayer. The many crosses, such as Nuns Cross East of Burrator Reservoir and Siward's Cross, were errected by the Monks as way markers, aiding trade and travelling across Dartmoor in foul weather.
Dartmoor Clapper Bridges, essentially granite slabs to bridge streams date from Medieval times, although no doubt some other form of bridging Dartmoor's many streams and rivers around Dartmeet particularly existed before these clapper bridges, long ago washed away by flood waters. They are fascinating simply for their age and their survival. The Clapper is a simple bridge form with flat slabs placed on pillar stones set in the stream bed. Perhaps the most famous Clapper Bridge in Dartmoor is at Postbridge and some thought was put into it's design. The Pillars are designed to deflect water and withstand the rising river and the slabs are sturdy and wide to withstand many a packhorse clambering over it. These Clapper Bridges were essential to enable the abbot's wool to be transported across Dartmoor as well as tin to the Stannary hotspots like Ashburton. Other Clapper Bridges can be seen at Dartmeet, where many Dartmoor rivers intersect.
Widecombe-in-the-Moor is a sizable village in the heart of Dartmoor National Park, north of Ashburton. A scattering of B&B guesthouses, a couple of hotels and campsites are all here, as is a most striking 14th century church which can be seen from miles away. Widecombe's church St Pancras has been nicknamed the Cathedral of the Moor, and it certainly is a scenic site, set within the moorland. The chap who wrote 'Onward Christain Solders', the Rev. Sabine Baring Gould, is buried in the churchard, as is Beatrice Chase, an author and descendant of William Parr who was the brother of Caterine Parr!
Widecombe's church adds to the attraction of a picture postcard village with many tea rooms, pubs, shops (including a National Trust shop). It’s a key central Dartmoor stopping off point for both walkers and leisurely drivers, and it caters accordingly in laid back style. There's easy parking, Pony trekking and horse riding are easily accessible, and there are pottery outlets and a delightful cafe on Widecombe's village green where you can enjoy your cream teas in style. For full details check out the informative Widecombe community website to the right, which has a fascinating local history angle with information on the role Widecombe played in Dartmoor's tin mining industry.
Widecombe is also rather famous for it's Widecombe Fair which takes place annually on the second Tuesday in September and dates back to the 1850s. Most have heard of the famous Widecombe Fair folk song and the story of Uncle Tom Cobley, and if you haven't you'll come across it most definitely during your visit to Widecombe! This event is a Devon Country Fair with flair, with an infectious community feel which welcomes in visitors to Dartmoor. It's a cattle and livestock market, but also you can expect events like tug of war, the Uncle Tom Cobley downhill race!, trade stands selling arts and crafts, Devon local produce and more, plus music, a disco, a children's exhibition, lots of snacks and food outlets, and licensed outlets for beer and wot not. A fabulous Devon Country Fair all round!
A number of guided walks around Widecombe are run by the Dartmoor National Park Authority every year which start at the main car park next to the information board. For details check in at the High Moorland Visitors Centre at Princetown or the Dartmoor National Park Authority's web link to the right.
Princetown is essentially renowned as the central Dartmoor home of Dartmoor Prison, built between 1806 and 1809 to house French prisoners during the Napoleonic Wars. American prisoners were brought here in Dartmoor Prison's early days as well. Many prisoners died here, and there are two graveyards just outside the prison walls. Princetown proved a suitably remote Dartmoor location for a prison, away from the Royal Navy dockyards and port of Plymouth.
French prisoners were first brough to Dartmoor Prison on 24th May 1809, about 2500 of them from Plymouth and more followed shortly. After 1812 when the United Stated declared war aainst the UK American prisoners were also brought here. About 250 American prisoners first arrived here in April 1813. American prisoners were apparently a fighting bunch, and caused authorities considerable problems. Conditions in the early 1800s at Darmoor Prison were grusome to say the least, within the Dartmoor context of a harsh climate, and little concern for hygiene. Many died from disease and untreated war wounds.
After the Neopolionic Wars Dartmoor Prison was empty for a period until 1850 when as a result of British colonies refusing to accept convicts any more, they began to deposit convicts/civil prisoners at Dartmoor Prison. It's well worth dropping into the exhibition at Dartmoor Prison to take in the photographs and display boards on this prison's long history. It's still a prison, and currently has about 700 sentenced prisoners within it's walls. Arts and crafts on display and for sale at this museum are made by Dartmoor Prisoners. Visitors can make up their own minds about this aspect of the museum. The museum is set within the old Dartmoor Prison stables.
Dartmoor Prison Museum, Princetown, Dartmoor. Tel: 01822 892130. Best to telephone before your visit, as opening is dependent on staff/operational requirements. It's usually open Mon, Tues, Wed, Thurs and Sat from 9.30am to 12.30, and 13.30 to 16.30. Fri and sun, from 9.30 to 12.30, and 13.30 to 1600. Last admission is 1/2 hour before closing time. Family tickets are available and it's only £2 entrance for adults, £1 for children. Find the Dartmoor Museum on the main road of Princetown Village, just past the main prison entrance. Parking is available.
There are a number of Dartmoor specialist walking holiday companies who can package up a weeks walking or more for you, either guided or self-guided. These can be expensive, so perhaps the best way to begin exploring Dartmoor if you're a novice to the area is to hook into one of the many guided walks run by the Dartmoor National Park Authority. They're cheap at the price, ranging from £1.50 to £6.00, dependent on the length of the Dartmoor walk
You can find a list of guided walks available from the Dartmoor National Park Authority either from their website (link to the right) or in the superbly informative Dartmoor Visitor which comes out three times a year. Some walks are available free if you travel by public transport to the meeting point (excluding the Navigation Courses). For bus route advice in Dartmoor tel: 0870 6082608. All you need to do is turn up at the meeting points. For most walks there is no requirement to pre-book. Children under 14 must be accompanied by an adult and it's recommended that you get to the starting points at least 10 minutes bfore the start of the walk.
There are hazards in Dartmoor, this is remote moorland we're talking about here so if you're not an experienced walker used to Dartmoor the guided walks are perhaps best. There are also several areas of Dartmoor used by the Ministry of Defence as firing ranges, and guided walks by experienced Dartmoor Park Rangers with great enthusiam and knowledge of Dartmoor. You'll get a historical commentry, as well as peace of mind that you're avoiding any firing range days and so forth. A range of walks is offered, from easy strolling to demanding moorland walking. Central Dartmoor and the High Moorland are well covered, including guided walks to popular HayTor, one of Dartmoor's most striking Tors. Dartmoor National Park Authority also organise visits and strolls to many of the farmers markets, or events such as Widecombe Fair. A superb National Park service all round. Look for your free copy of The Dartmoor Visitor when you're in the area, available free from all the tourist information centres.
There's a Dartmoor National Park Authority Information point at Haytor, just at the lower car park on the main road. There are toilets here as well with disabled access. Tel: 01364 661520. It's bound to be popular this particular central Dartmoor spot, as just look at what there is to see. Haytor rocks of course, then Saddle Tor, Hound Tor and the fascinating medieval settlement near classic Bowerman's Nose. To get a real sense of the dramatic effects of eroded Dartmoor granite, this area is most certainly a must visit.
High Moorland Visitor Centre, Tavistock Road, Princetown. Tel: 01822 890414.
Haytor National Park Information Centre, Tel: 01364 661520
Postbridge National Park Information Centre, Tel: 01822 880272
For a quirky laugh to say the least, and that ultimate kitsch gift, call in at Pixeland just outside Princetown (check their web link to the right!). There's a superb range of garden ornaments here, particularly elaborately painted garden gnomes, pixies and fairies fantastic! Check out the Roald Dahl ceramics as well. There's some beautifully crafted gifts here, from large colourful pixies, to cerise sheep skin rugs. It probably is one of Devon's best arts and crafts outlets, don't miss it! Also available are a wide selection of sheepskin rugs. The kids will love the gnomes!
Pixieland, Dartmeet, Princetown PL20 6SG, Tel: 01364 631412.