iKnow Devon
Clovelly Tourist Information Charles Kingsley Water Babies Donkeys
Clovelly, carved into the cliffs of this far North stretch of the Devon coast, has been a favourite Devon visitor spot for many years. Charles Kingsley, author of The Water Babies and Westward Ho (which he wrote whilst in Clovelly) spent his childhood here, and the scenic beauty of Clovelly is there in his books. Clovelly Quay dates back to the 14th century, and there's a host of smuggling and pirate history associated with this charming Devon village. There's been many a shipwreck off Clovelly, and the village still has it's own lifeboat!
Clovelly's narrow cobbled streets are built from pebbles hauled up from the beach, and add to it's charm and character. Old inns, craft shops and tea rooms line these narrow streets, along with picture postcard fishmans cottages. Due to the sharp inclines of the cobbled streets donkeys have always been the main way of getting about, hence the famous Clovelly donkey present on many gifts and nic-nacks! It's well worth wearing good footwear when you come to Clovelly, as the pebbled narrow streets can sometimes be slippery - high heels not a good idea in Clovelly!
Clovelly North Devon Coast
A good place to start when exploring Clovelly is the Visitor centre which has various audio/visual exhibitions, and a well stocked gift shop. You can pick up street guides and Clovelly attraction details here, and there is adjacent parking. Clovelly Visitor Centre is right at the top of the hill, and quite a climb. The entrance fee to the town, payable at the Vistor Centre, includes parking and access to other facilities provided by the Clovelly Estate including access to the audio-visual film at the Visitor Centre and the Kingsley Museum. The town is actually owned by just one family.
Donkeys have long been very important in Clovelly. How else could goods and people be transported up these narrow streets, much too steep and narrow for cars! Today residents tend to use sledges to carry goods up and down, but the donkeys are still here in Clovelly and there is a new Donkey Stables visitor attraction opening to the public in 2006. In the summer season donkeys are out and about giving the kids a ride 'up-along' or 'down-along', and are happy to pose for that iconic Clovelly holiday photo!
Clovelly is a famous Devon hotspot for arts and crafts, particularly pottery. Just below the visitors centre is a superb craft workshop, pulling together a variety of pottery from both Devon and Cornish potters. You can learn how pottery is made here at the Clovelly arts and crafts pottery workshop, plus pottery gifts are available to buy. The pottery is open most of the year, and during the summer it's open from Monday to Saturday, 9:30am – 6:00pm. Pottery courses are also available here, if you fancy learning how to do it yourself. A factsheet on workshops and pottery classes is available by phoning (01237) 431042.
There is a smallish fee for access to Clovelly village, which goes towards it's maintenance. Check the Clovelly website to the right for uptodate prices. Visitors should be aware that the main High Street in Clovelly is very steep and can be slippery - so it is recommended to wear sensible footwear. Unfortunately the main street is not suitable for wheelchairs, but the Visitor Centre, donkey stables, craft workshops and Mount Pleasant grassy picnic area are all wheelchair accessible. Call the Visitor Centre on: (01237) 431 781.
Clovelly Historical Attractions
Once a bustling fishing village, Clovelly pays due homage to it's fishing history. There's a Fisherman's Cottage to view, and see how a fisherman's family lived in the 1930s. The Lifeboat House is also open for pre-booked school and group visits only (tel: 01237 431781). Take note of Clovelly's choice of historic Inns which include the 17th century New Inn hotel (which has luxury en-suite rooms now!) has a beautifully decorated interior in an arts and crafts style. The Red Lion Hotel dates from the 18th century and is right down on Clovelly Quay - the perfect spot to stay right on the Quay with superb views out to sea!
Pottery around Clovelly village is a most pleasurable experience, and no cars! There's lots to do, from viewing the spectacular waterfall which runs right down to Clovelly beach, to relaxing and looking out to sea at the Look-out point. Visit both the Methodist Chap dating from 1820 and St Peter's Chapel, a Parish church which opened in 1846. The Oldest cottage in Clovelly is 'Crazy Kate's Cottage' right on the key. It's so named after a Fisherman's widow. Move down to Clovelly's charming 14th century quay which has it's own shop, and relax in the little harbour with a copy of one of Kingsley's poems like the 'The Three Fishers' (1851), a stark reminder of the harsh realities faced by fishing families.
Three fishers went sailing away to the West, Away to the West as the sun went down;……….Three wives sat up in the lighthouse tower, and they trimmed the lamps as the sun went down; They looked at the squall, and they looked at the shower, And the night-rack came rolling up ragged and brown........ Three corpses lay out on the shining sands, In the morning gleam as the tide went down, And the women are weeping and wringing their hands For those who will never come home to town."" (The Three Fishers, by Charles Kingsley, 1851).
Charles Kingsley, The Water Babies & Clovelly
Much of the attention on Clovelly worldwide is because of it's famous Victorian resident Charles Kingsley, novelist, parson, Christian socialist and Protestant controversialist, who lived in Clovelly as a child, and often returned as an adult. He wrote Westward Ho, his novel on the crisis within Christianity and the clash between Catholic Spain and Protestant England whilst in Clovelly. His novel Westward Ho lead him into many a clashing of his own with the likes of John Henry Newman and Edward Pusey, High church notables. All of course were to create arguments oblivious to Darwin's theories.
Charles Kingsley helped form the Christian Socialist movement, and was certainly influenced by the appauling conditions of the urban poor and his witnessing of the Bristol Riots of 1831 and the Chartist uprising. He was heavily influenced by Frederick Denison Maurice, also involved in forming the Christian Socialist Movement, and by authors and poets like Carlyle. Essentially then like these influencers he rejected the physical force of Chartism and instead sort to challenge the injustices to the poor by challenging the social order, competition and laissez-faire politics through his books, in the Christian socialist style. He was a curate and his style was moralistic and preachy - you can see it in the Water Babies with it's moral ending.
Looking back at this famous Victorian author, whose childrens books particularly are still popular, particularly his story of Tom the Chimney Sweep in The Water Babies, his gritty realism is still fascinating and gives an insight into the grusome violence of the period, and the clear empathy from Kingsley for the urban poor of the period. He wrote much on the abysmal state of sanitation and public health, and he highlighted the foul conditions of the sweated tailor trade in works such as 'Cheap Clothes and Nasty'.
His approach was essentially that of the 'top down' Christian scientist however, and his audience were the middle classes who needed educating on their injustices. Not quite for him was a recognition of the Chartist uprising as a forceful challenge by the working class, and a moment where they thought for themselves with their own charter to bring about change. Find out more about Charles Kingsley at the fascinating Clovelly 'Kingsley Museum and Shop'. Clovelly features in his novel 'Westward Ho', and indeed Clovelly would have remained somewhat unknown without it's reference by both Kingsley and Dickens. Most of Charles Kingsley's works are available to buy in the very good shop alongside the museum. Well worth a look!
Clovelly Devon Walking & Boat Trips
Clovelly is a beautiful base for North Devon Coastal walking. Hobby Drive winds along through woods from Clovelly and offers superb views of both Clovelly harbour and Bideford Bay. Walking the other way along the coast, you can walk all the way along this dramatic North Devon stretch of coastal cliffs to Hartland Point, taking in the little carved shelter called Angel's Wings then on to the dramatic headland called Gallantry Bower, forward to Mouth Mill Cove once popular with smugglers then onto Hartland Point with it's lighthouse!
Many boat trips are available from Clovelly, including fishing trips or excursions out to offshore island and bird watching haven Lundy Island. Check with the Clovelly Visitors centre for details on boat trips available.
The woodland areas on top of the cliffs around Clovelly are full of wildlife, including a variety of birds, butterflies and small mammals. Expect also to see foxgloves, primroses and beautiful bluebells at certain times of the year.
Clovelly Golf
Hartland Forest Golf & Leisure Parc, Near Clovelly, North Devon. EX39 5RA. Tel: 01237 431442. 18 hole course, 71 Par.
